A Brief Sustainability Guide to Popular Fashion Fabrics

With sustainable fashion on the rise, you might be wondering how much of an impact your closet actually has on the environment. Most people aren’t aware of how polluting the fashion industry really is. Fashion is responsible for 4% of the world’s total greenhouse gas emissions, emitting over 2 billion metric tons of greenhouse gases into the atmosphere. 

In the last decade, thrifting has become immensely popular since it is environmentally friendly and affordable. However, if you’re not into vintage or secondhand clothing, it is really important to consider what materials your clothes are made from, as some fabrics are substantially more polluting than others. To make your life easier, we have created this guide to help you shop for clothing more wisely. 

NATURAL FABRICS

Natural fabrics comprise those that are derived from plant fibers or protein fibers from animals. Many consumers assume that natural fabrics are more eco-friendly than their synthetic counterparts simply because they think “natural” equates to more sustainable. However, plant and animal sourced fibers can pose just as many environmental risks due to high water consumption, land use, and pesticide use. As well, there surrounds an ethical dilemma regarding animal sourced fabrics since several farms around the world have been exposed for the mistreatment of goats, sheeps, and alpacas for wool production. Nevertheless, natural fibers still have many benefits. When the fabric is undyed, it is fully biodegradable and recyclable. They also typically do not use as many chemicals as synthetic fibers (with the exception of conventional cotton) and have a smaller carbon footprint. 

Cotton

Cotton is the second most popular fabric on the market. However, conventional cotton is considered one of the most unsustainable natural fibers used to make clothing. Unfortunately, cotton production requires quite a lot of land to grow and consumes massive amounts of water. Nearly 2,700 liters of water are required to produce a single cotton t-shirt. Cotton often gets a bad reputation because it relies heavily on pesticides, which are extremely toxic to humans and degrade soil quality. However, one advantage is that cotton production uses less energy than synthetic fibers. 

Linen

Linen, which is considered the strongest natural fiber and is notably more long-lasting than cotton, is derived from the stem of the flaxseed plant. While it typically requires a large amount of land, linen is overall a relatively sustainable fabric. According to the European Confederation of Linen and Hemp (CELC), a single linen t-shirt only uses around 6.4 liters. As well, linen is moth-resistant, which means that it does not demand a lot of pesticides. However, linen products consume more energy than cotton because  they require more frequent ironing.

Hemp

Hemp fibers are sourced from the stem of the Cannabis sativa, the same plant responsible for marijuana. However, hemp used in the fashion industry is a different breed of Cannabis sativa that has significantly lower levels of THC, the psychoactive chemical that produces the “high” sensation. It also produces one of the most sustainable fabrics on the market. It consumes significantly less water and land than cotton. In fact, in certain parts of the world, hemp relies solely on rainwater for its water needs. It also is naturally fertilizing and does not require pesticides, although they are used occasionally. In addition, hemp has been proven to absorb more carbon from the atmosphere than any other crop or forest per hectare. 

Wool

Wool is made from the protein in animal hair, most commonly from sheep and goats. Similarly to plant-derived fibers, wool is completely biodegradable if it is not treated with chemicals or dyes. It also uses considerably less water than cotton. Wool is extremely durable and considered more long-lasting than other natural fabric options. However, livestock used for wool production can release methane, a greenhouse gas that is 20 times more potent than carbon dioxide. As well, may consumers tend to avoid wool since it is not vegan. Many sheeps and goats used for wool production live in extremely cramped factory farms. As well, some farmers practice mulesing, which involves cutting off the skin near the sheeps’ buttocks without painkillers. With animal cruelty awareness on the rise, many clothing brands are seeking to source their wool from ethical farms. It is important to make sure you choose wool products that are sourced ethically. 

SYNTHETIC FIBERS

Synthetic fibers are man-made alternatives to natural fibers that are typically made from plastic materials. Since most synthetic fibers are derived from petroleum or coal, they are not biodegradable and can take centuries to decompose. Synthetics are considered unsustainable since the industry completely relies on fossil fuels. They also are responsible for significant amounts of microplastic pollution. 

Polyester

Polyester, which is currently the most commonly used fabric on the market, is made from a petroleum-derived synthetic polymer commonly known as polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Almost 70 million barrels of crude oil are used to produce polyester every year. It also can take up to 200 years for polyester to decompose. Polyester is notably one of the largest contributors to microplastic pollution in oceans. When polyester is washed, it sheds microplastics that are so tiny that they are able to pass through sewage treatment plants. Since polyester is resistant to conventional dye, it uses disperse dyes, which are extremely toxic and non-compostable. These chemicals are released into the water system along with the microplastics. 

Nylon

Nylon is polymer fabric made from polyamide monomers extracted from petroleum. Not only does nylon rely on fossil fuels for raw materials, but it also releases significant amounts of nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas that is roughly 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide. Additionally, nylon uses significant quantities of water and energy during the manufacturing process. Similarly to polyester, nylon sheds microplastics when washed.

MAN-MADE CELLULOSIC FIBERS

Man-made cellulosic (MMC) fibers are manufactured fibers extruded from plant materials. They are conventionally made from wood but can also be created from an array of other sources including bamboo, hemp, and even agricultural wastes. They are usually considered more sustainable than cotton and synthetic fibers because its manufacturing process requires less water and land and emits less carbon. Since the fibers are made from plants, the material is biodegradable and recyclable. However, most man-made cellulosic fibers on the market are contributing to deforestation and threatening forests around the world. 

Rayon

Rayon, which is also known as viscose, is the most popular man-made cellulosic fiber in the textile industry. While it is commonly used as a more sustainable alternative to synthetic fibers, rayon is not actually that much more eco-friendly than plastic-derived fibers. Rayon is typically treated with toxic chemicals that can contaminate local waterways, which can be extremely harmful to factory workers and local communities who are exposed to these chemicals. As well, rayon is not always ethically sourced and could be contributing to deforestation in endangered forests. Nearly 150 million trees are logged every year for rayon production, and it is estimated that around 50 million of those trees could be sourced from endangered or ancient forests. 

Modal

Modal is a more sustainable version of the traditional viscose rayon and is mainly sourced from beech trees. While modal is also processed with a variety of toxic chemicals, including sodium hydroxide, it does not demand nearly as much chemicals as rayon. TENCEL™ modal, which is produced by Lenzing AG, is an extremely environmentally friendly brand of modal. TENCEL™ modal uses a closed-loop process, meaning that water and chemicals used during manufacturing are recycled so that toxins are not released into the water supply. In addition, TENCELTM modal is made from ethically sourced beech trees and is carbon-neutral. It’s important to keep in mind that not all modal is sourced from sustainable forests or produced using a closed-loop process.  

Lyocell

Lyocell is the newest and most sustainable version of rayon available on the market, often made from eucalyptus trees. TENCELTM is the original lyocell brand that was pioneered by Lenzing AG. Just like the modal version, TENCELTM lyocell uses a closed-loop process that recycles water and chemicals and is ethically sourced. Instead of sodium hydroxide, it uses an N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) solvent that is significantly less toxic and is easily recyclable. Lenzing AG ensures that their lyocell is only sourced from sustainably managed forests.

Bamboo

Bamboo fabrics are often considered to be a prime example of “greenwashing” in the textile industry. It is commonly advertised to be very sustainable, as the crop itself requires very little water and pesticides to grow. However, the manufacturing process of bamboo definitely is not as eco-friendly as one might expect. In fact, bamboo is typically treated with the same chemical process as viscose. This means that manufacturing bamboo fibers (which should be labelled as bamboo rayon) releases large amounts of toxic chemicals into local waterways. While most bamboo fabrics are man-made cellulosic fibers, bamboo can also be treated similarly to linen. Bamboo linen is a natural fiber that is much more sustainable than bamboo rayon because it avoids harsh chemicals. 

ORGANIC FIBERS

Organic fabrics do not use pesticides, fertilizers, or other toxic chemicals during the manufacturing process, making them considerably more sustainable than their conventional counterparts. Since the fabric is completely natural, the material is also longer-lasting. As well, organic farming generally emits less carbon dioxide. However, organic clothing can be hard to find and tends to be more expensive. 

Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is a much more sustainable alternative to conventional cotton since it does not use any fertilizers or pesticides. By omitting these toxic chemicals, it greatly improves the quality of the soil and does not harm the surrounding ecosystem. It also ensures that farmers are not exposed to carcinogenic chemicals. As well, organic cotton uses less blue water per acre. While it does not contribute to water pollution, organic cotton still has drawbacks. Unfortunately, it has a lower yield than conventional cotton, meaning that it requires more land to grow the same amount of cotton.

Organic Wool

Organic wool is sourced from animals that are not exposed to any fertilizers, pesticides, or other toxic chemicals and are fed only organic produce. As well, organic wool is not treated with any toxic chemicals during the fiber manufacturing process. In addition, animals on organic farms have significantly better welfare due to cruelty-free practices.    

RECYCLED FIBERS

Over the years, fabrics made from recycled and organic materials have become more widely available on the market. Recycled materials are significantly more environmentally friendly than conventional fabrics due to decreased land, water, and energy usage. They also reduce waste and minimize the fashion industry’s dependence on fossil fuels. By using old materials, recycled fibers reduce the amount of waste going into landfills. 

Recycled Cotton

Recycled cotton is considered to be significantly more sustainable than conventional and organic cotton because it uses a fraction of the amount of water, land, and energy during production. Recycled cotton is manufactured from either post-industrial or post-consumer waste. Post-industrial cotton is the leftovers from cotton factories that would typically end up in the landfill, while post-consumer cotton is salvaged from used cotton garments. A downside to recycled cotton is that it is not as durable as conventional cotton, as the recycling process weakens the fibers. As a result, it is difficult to find clothes that are made from 100% recycled cotton, as it is commonly mixed with other types of fibers to improve the fabric’s longevity. 

Recycled Polyester

Recycled polyester is often repurposed from water bottles and other sources of plastic waste. Since recycled polyester does not require the extraction of virgin petroleum and coal, it has a much lower carbon footprint than conventional polyester. However, it still contributes to microplastic pollution when the material is washed. As well, recycled polyester is also not indefinitely recyclable. When plastic is repurposed, it is exposed to very high levels of heat which degrade the quality of the material. When polyester is too weak to be repurposed again, it ends up in the landfill. There is additional concern that recycled polyester from water bottles contain carcinogenic chemicals.