Why are sustainable man-made cellulosic fibers so important for the fashion industry?
Did you know it takes nearly 2,700 liters of water to manufacture a single cotton t-shirt?
In fact, the fashion industry is currently one of the most polluting industries in the world. The combination of high carbon emissions, water and land usage, and chemical waste make the industry highly unsustainable. It is estimated that fashion production emits roughly 4% of global CO2 emissions due to high fossil fuel consumption in factories.
In particular, the rise of the fast fashion industry has taken a significant toll on our environmental resources. As clothes on the market are becoming more affordable and accessible, the average consumer is buying more clothes than ever before. In 2015, nearly 98 million tonnes of non-renewable resources (including oil, fertilisers, and other chemicals) were consumed for clothing, and it is projected that we will consume nearly three times the amount in 2050. Unfortunately, an increase in garment production will necessitate an increase in energy consumption and further deplete land and water resources.
Cotton is currently the most popular fabric on the market due to its durability and comfort. While cotton fiber itself is renewable and biodegradable, the production of cotton apparel requires excessive amounts of water and land. As well, most fast fashion products are not organic and use large amounts of pesticides that pollute our water supplies. Polyester, the second most commonly used fabric, is a synthetic petroleum-derived fiber. Not only is it not biodegradable, but it also emits significant amounts of nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas that is more potent than carbon dioxide. Although it requires less water and land than cotton, the polyester industry is fully dependent on the extraction of fossil fuels.
In order to reduce our carbon footprint and natural resource consumption, the fashion industry needs to increase sustainability efforts. Many clothing brands have already taken the initiative to improve their environmental footprint by choosing greener fabrics. In the last few decades, fabrics made from man-made cellulosic (MMC) fibers have rapidly risen in popularity. Examples of MMC fibers that you may have heard about include rayon (viscose), modal, and lyocell. Typically, MMC fibers are extruded from wood, but they can be created from a variety of other plant sources such as bamboo and agricultural waste. MMC production is often considered to be more sustainable than cotton and polyester because the fabric is biodegradable, requires less water and land, and consumes less fossil fuels during production. In addition, several MMC fabrics use a closed-loop process, where water and chemicals used during manufacturing are recycled so that toxins are not released into the water supply.
However, that does not mean that all MMC fibers are the perfect solution either. Over 200 million trees are logged annually for MMC production, endangering some of the world’s most precious forests. In order to effectively increase the fashion industry’s sustainability efforts, it will require the industry to diverge from fibers that rely on high water usage, fossil fuel consumption, and finite natural resources. In addition, viscose is usually processed with a handful of extremely toxic chemicals that threaten human health and nearby ecosystems.
A promising solution to this problem is the production of MMC fibers made from agricultural wastes and recycled plant materials. With modern technology, several companies are making it possible to manufacture MMC fibers from hemp, banana, and pineapple waste, among others. While these alternative fibers are considerably more sustainable than wood, they unfortunately come with a hefty price.
At The Hurd Co., we have developed agriloseTM – a new MMC feedstock pulp made entirely from discarded plant material that is zero emissions and cost-effective. Fabric made from agriloseTM has the feel of cotton, the versatility of polyester, and is made from 100% agricultural waste. The Hurd Co.’s patented cleantech process uses 50% less water, consumes 350x less energy, and has ½ the production cost compared to traditional pulping technology. Sustainable man-made cellulosic fibers like agriloseTM would dramatically reduce the industry’s demand for water, land, chemicals, and energy while remaining cost effective.
